South of the Tianshan Range!
No direct flights to Kashgar for me so I decided to stop over and visit Urumqi & Turpan. A day is good for a visit to Urumqi, we stayed in People’s Park, walked around the Bazaar and visited the museum. Rented a car and drove 2h to Turpan. Good for another night or two. June, so 40c + !!!! Stayed in a nice mingsu in Grape Valley, a cool mingsu with context and some great grapes / raisins! Interesting visit to the ancient ruins of Jiaohe/Yarghul, the capital of the Tocharian kingdom (108BC), Emin Minaret / Sugong Tower 1778 and Tuyugou old town in a valley of the Flaming Mountains, plus a winery to finish it off!. Easy drive back to the airport and a flight off to Kashgar.
Kashgar 喀什
Easy flight to Kashgar. Nice new hotel near the old town. Some nice walks around the old city and some good food. Stock up on supplies, SF deliver the bike and I assemble it. Buy some carpets and gifts for the family.
Day 1 138KM 747m to Ottura Qarajol Village
S: 2, R: 2, H: 1.5
3 Checks and 1 Hotel Check
Early start out of Kashgar. Quiet S roads until I hit the G219. 10km of loads of trucks to the G314, once passed that all was fine. A few trucks but good hard shoulder / side of road to cycle on. Hope the road conditions stay the same.
Day 2 205 KM 1966m to Akqi
S: 3, R: 4, H: 2.5
Bit overcast so could not make out too much of the back drop. Headwind mostly flat for first 50km. Then uphill for about 50km. Nothing too steep and up to 2800m. Luckily a little food hut after the top and then nice cruise down to a lunch stop about 120km in and then roll down to Akqi. Big gov hotel. Friendly town vibe. On, to the river that followed the mountain range. Serious snow melt. Not touristy. Kyrgyz 75% Taushgan River (托什干河)
Day 3 181KM 262m To Aksu
S: 2.5, R: 3?, H: 2.5
A very quick average made for an easy day. Basically downhill all the way. First 60km on the S road. Friendly police checks. Then on the G219 which turned into the new G219 highway…. Luckily not fully open yet so police suggested I ride down it. First time through a ETC being cheered on by the SWAT team. Extremely friendly police checks, normal questions, makes sure i have enough to eat and drink. Gives me a yoghurt and drink, exchange of photos and chat. He should get into training police etiquette! Then about 90km of fast highway riding.
Day 4 Aksu to Baicheng
S: 2, R: 1 then 0, H: 3
Do the long route or get a car for this part of the journey. Don’t do the G314 – it’s truck crazy and terrible hard shoulder. Anyway, interesting experience with the driver, his home and family….. Baicheng big industry but some nice tree lined streets, nice hotel and food. Nothing to see along the way but next day should be interesting.
Day 5 Baicheng to Kuqa
S: 3, R: 3.5 then 0, H: 3
Nice start. Interesting visit to the temple caves. Worth a stop and a visit. Terrible road conditions after that to Kuqa. Truck hell.
Kizil Cave
Day 6 Kuqa up the Duku
S: 3, R: 0 to 4, H: 1.5
I go north up the Duku highway / G217 when most go south. First 100km is mining truck hell, i would not bother to cycle it. Then it gets nice.
Day 7 Stopped and made to turn back 🙁
S: 4.5, R: 5 then …. , H: 3
Great start to the day as I left before the road was open and 2h of great riding basically by myself. Then traffic turned up a notch, i got over the first pass and then the police stopped me. Foreigners are not allowed into one of the most touristy roads i’ve been on. Its a sensitive military area im told by these rude and unpolite police who end up deleting the photos on my phone i took of their regulation. It does not make much sense to me!. Police end up shouting at me so i turn around and find a car and have it drive back to Kuqa. Pack the bike in the local friendly Giant shop and get a flight next morning to Yining.
Riding Notes: The south of Tianshan is more arid and barren than the North. If you don’t have the time I would forget cycling the south and focus on the Yining, north area. Also before you cycle the G217 / Duku Highway think twice about it. The traffic is a nightmare and scary. The scenery is amazing but for saftey I would have driven it or gone off season (September), only cycling at dawn to the time the road is open to traffic. Also have lots of water bottles / water bladders for this section as i went 90km without filling in some areas.
